The clipfish casserole with tomato, called Bacalao, is a favorite in Northern Norway. However, Portuguese chefs have long been skilled in crafting a delicacy from Norwegian salted cod.
The “Bacalao from Norway” story is an exchange where Norway provided the salted, dried cod (known as klippfisk) to Iberian countries, such as Spain and Portugal, who then introduced the flavorful, Mediterranean-style stew, also called bacalao, back to Norway.
The tradition of preserving cod dates back to the Vikings, who referred to it as “stockfish” and took it on long voyages due to its high protein content and durability. Viking sailors and later Norwegian traders exported this durable, high-protein cod to southern Europe, where it became a staple due to Catholic traditions of meat abstinence during specific periods. The Norwegians eventually adopted and adapted the hearty stew to their own cuisine, making the Spanish-named dish a beloved part of Norwegian culinary tradition.
The Portuguese distinguish between meat, fish, and bacalao. The word means cod, but what they are referring to is dried and salted clipfish. In the book “My Codfish Recipes”, Portuguese chef Vítor Sobral presents 500 ways to cook cod. This Codfish Confitado in Olive Oil and Garlic is one of them and one that will shine on any occasion.
The word bacalao evokes images of salsa and samba rhythms, of the sun in southern climes, of white sandy beaches, Mediterranean cuisine, and dinner in sultry summer temperatures under a crow-black sky. But why? The clipfish that the bacalao is made of is Norwegian after all, and Northern Norwegian at that. Perhaps it’s just that it has been on a timeout in several Latin countries for a while?
However, the numbers don’t lie. Over 70 percent of all clipfish produced in Norway is shipped to Portugal, and Norway has just over 40 percent of the Portuguese market, but is working to increase its share. In recent years, tens of millions of Norwegian kroner have been spent on marketing Norwegian clipfish in Portugal.
Clipfish was once daily fare in Norway. It is said that many had nothing else to eat but dried herring and clipfish during the war. So, when the war ended in 1945, if two things were dropped from the menu, if one could afford to do so, it was the dried fish. Statistics on Norwegian eating habits seem to support this theory.
Bacalao is no longer the affordable food it once was in Portugal, but the Portuguese seem to care little about it. They consume an average of over 90 meals each per year, equivalent to approximately 60 kilograms of clean fish per person. And believe it or not, they also enjoy cod with their coffee in the form of pasteis de bacalhau, small cookies filled with cod.
At last, after several attempts to convince Norwegians of the attributes of clipfish without success, something twigged suddenly in the 90s. All of a sudden, clipfish was relaunched in the guise of bacalao in a series of exotic restaurants that were springing up across the country. Finally, we could say the word ‘clipfish’ without so many people wrinkling their noses.
The trade in clipfish became a vibrant cultural exchange, with Norwegians receiving spices and cultural traditions in return, including the now-famous dish. Vitor Sobral is a pioneer of Portuguese cuisine. He paved the way for a younger generation of innovative, world-class chefs and is known for experimenting with and evolving traditional Portuguese dishes.
When the term bacalao was coined, there was no established practice for delivering fresh cod to southern European countries. To export it, it therefore had to be thoroughly salted. It is only in modern times that it has become possible to supply southern Europe with frozen and, subsequently, fresh cod. This variety is known as bacalao fresco – fresh cod – whilst the thoroughly salted fish is still called bacalao.
Bacalao is often described as Norway’s most foreign dish because of its Spanish/Portuguese roots.
Bacalao is also a traditional Portuguese Christmas dish. One reason the dish became so popular is that the Catholic faith forbade people from eating meat on certain days. In several areas, especially in the north, the fish has been given the same status as meat.
It is said that dried fish was Norway’s very first export item. When clipfish was ‘invented’, it quickly became a threat to the Norwegian dried fish export industry. Southern Europe had had a taste of something that, after having been soaked, was far more versatile than fish that had been dried. What’s more, it had been preserved no less than three times; thoroughly salted, dried, and cured. This meant that the Spanish and the Portuguese could take it with them on their conquests of Latin America. This is how the new culinary tradition took root in these countries.
Over time, the Norwegians adopted the dish, adapting it to their own palate and making it a traditional and popular meal, especially in coastal areas. Today, bacalao remains a significant part of Norwegian cuisine, with many recipes featuring tomatoes and other ingredients that create a hearty and flavorful stew.
“I never liked bacalao before I tasted aquavit,” says Kaja Moreite Nørholm Tinderholt, owner and manager of Restaurant Fyret in Oslo. “Now I enjoy both bacalao and the many new tastes of the spirit.” Her heart desires to get more people to open their eyes to aquavit. There are a variety of brands and flavors available, and many distilleries focus on flavors suitable for summer and women.
Bacalao: Portuguese Chefs Have Long Been Skilled in Crafting a Delicacy from Salted Norwegian Cod, written by Tor Kjolberg.
Feature image (top) © Godfisk.no