The Höga Kusten (High Coast) in Sweden was formed when the region sank under a gigantic mass of ice during the last ice age.
When the ice retreated, the land sprang back and it is still rising today. This has left a dynamic landscape of vertical cliffs and craggy outcrops, lined with tranquil sandy coves.
Accessibility and flexibility are the watchwords for the exciting 127 km (80 mi) trail that takes you through the terrain
Accessibility and flexibility are the watchwords for the exciting 127 km (80 mi) trail that takes you through the terrain. Divided into fourteen stages, it offers the hikers a wide variety of challenges, whilst each stage is handily reachable by car. There are even organized self-guided tours where you can walk between lodgings, while your luggage is transported for you, allowing you to travel light.
This striking area has been given UNESCO World Heritage Site status and the hike takes you through Sweden’s highest coastal area. A rich diversity of rivers, lakes, inlets and hills makes it a good test for hikers of all levels.
Each day offers varying terrain as well as beautiful views out over the dark blue seas of the Gulf of Bothnia. Starting near central Örnsköldsvik the trail presents the hiker with compact challenges.
Mountains seem more climbable when you know that old-fashioned Swedish hospitality awaits you at the end each day.
Accommodation ranges from simple huts to guesthouses, but for a genuine Swedish welcome, nothing beats staying in a traditional farmhouse, several of which open their doors to tourists in summer.
The hike is fully accessible from May to October. Don’t miss the Skuleskogen National Park and the imposing Slatterdalskrevan Gorge. However, it’s important nit to be too ambitious. Don’t be fooled by the relatively short distances between designated stops – the ruggedness of the terrain can often slow your progress.
The High Coast
Hiking the High Coast Trail in Sweden, written by Tor Kjolberg
A cycling vacation along the Vestfjord route in Northern Norway is a most memorable experience – new, breathtaking sights appear around every bend.
Combining ferry trips with cycling, this route serves up almost everything Norway gas to offer. White sandy beaches butt up against soaring mountain scenery. Archeological relics and historical buildings satisfy those who seek more cultural pursuits, whilst for the more active there is ample opportunities to swim, hike or fish.
The Lofoten islands bike roite
Idyllic little villages of brightly painted wooden houses line the route as you travel from island to island. It is easy to see why locals describe this area as the real Norway and the archipelago features prominently Nordic art, film and literature.
To cover the full 450 km (281 mi) would be to undertake a journey of epic proportions
To cover the full 450 km (281 mi) would be to undertake a journey of epic proportions; however good transport links make it possible to get to almost any part of the trail quickly.
From Steigen, Lofoten
Old market centers such as Løvøy and Grøtøy have been faithfully restored, whilst Steigen is a real hidden gem, teeming with innumerable historic relics. Those who seek more adventure should explore the cave system at Nordskot, whilst those looking for a more sedate outdoor experience can soak up the sun on the wonderful white sandy beaches near Misten.
The Vestfjord rally does have something for everyone. All you need is a bicycle, good waterproofs, a ferry timetable and a spirit of exploration, and a new adventure awaits you around every corner.
May to September provides the best weather. You will need two weeks for the whole route. Forward planning is required to make the most of this trip. Although the ferries are reliable, the faster services take you to the most crowded sections. If you wish to leave the beaten track it may require taking two or more of the less frequent services.
Feature image (on top): Reine, Lofoten islands
Cycling Vacation in Lofoten Islands, written by Tor Kjolberg
Chef Mads Rye Magnussen, known from prestigious restaurants like Noma and Geranium in Copenhagen as well as Mugaritz in Spain, opened a new restaurant in Copenhagen, “Meille” in March this year.
Restaurant Meille in Sankt Peders Stræde serves high-quality food at affordable prices combined with sustainable awareness and traditional cooking methods. Dishes are inspired by season and local, Danish greens and meats.
The recommended accompanying wines were interesting and excellent
Magnussen also successfully runs restaurant Mes down at the end of Sankt Peders stræde at James Plads. Like Mes, we will describe the concept as a gourmet light restaurant. There are no a la carte menus, only fixed menus of three or four dishes at 245 and 295 Danish kroner, respectively. The atmosphere is nice, cozy and elegant, mostly new Nordic without being dogmatic.
For those who appreciate natural wines, the attraction is even a very excellent, reasonably priced wine list with wines at 345 Danish kroner.
Why not start with some excellent snacks bowls at 50 kroner per person? Our first dish consisted of home-made fresh cheese made with buttermilk, was garnished with a crispy salted asparagus and sprouts of radish and green peas in fermented cucumber juice and a spicy bitter beetroot.
Next serving was mackerel garnished with cucumber and spicy fermented ginger, which gave the dish a Japanese sushi / sashimi-like touch.
The brilliant main course consisted of a nice slice of juicy chicken breast, which had a slightly smoked flavor, topped with fermented rose petals and potato “airbags” with dried cabbage and leaf sticks. The accessories consisted of a chicken sauce, a purée of carrot and potato foam.
In 1983–84, Pop artist Andy Warhol (1928–87) produced a series of 15 prints with images taken directly from some of Edvard Munch’s most renowned motifs.But he enlarged them and colored them so boldly that Edvard Munch had turned in his grave if he had seen them!
Warhol had long regarded Munch, alongside Henri Matisse, as one of his favorite artists, and he had visited Oslo in 1973 to view Munch’s works at the National Gallery and the Munch Museum.
Edvard Munch by Andy Warhol
Like most of Warhol’s best-known works, these are copies which at the same time transform the sense and meaning of the originals. And he has made many of each subject – but in completely different colors and color combinations
The paintings describe a transaction in which the famously superficial Warhol becomes a profound and important figure in the history of art, while Munch, tortured and brooding, is best known for the mass-culture icon that The Scream has become.
The 15 prints become very different depending on the color scheme. How should we interpret the works of the two artists? How should we look at the expressionist Munch? And what did Warhol want when copying and transforming Munch?
We choose to place Edvard Munch into the age of modernity. The alienation that shines out of his images is not just his own. His self-portrait does not only express himself. It delves into the depths of today’s modern soul life. Unlike Andy Warhol, where the surface is essential. If you scratch it off “there is nothing underneath”, as Warhol expresses it. These contradictions are probably the main focus on the exhibition.
Munchmuseet on the Move – Kunsthall Oslo: Dronning Eufemias gate 34, Bjørvika. 26/05/18 — 26/08/18
Feature image (on top): From the ‘Andy Warhol after Munch’ exhibition at Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Copenhagen.
The Edvard Munch Museum in Oslo on the Move, based on a press release
A little-known café, Kulturtårnet, in an old copper bridge tower with 360-degree views of the Copenhagen harbor and even many Danes don’t know of its existence. That in spite of the fact that the copper bridge tower at Knippelsbro, is one of Copenhagen’s most treasured landmarks.
Since 2010 the image of the tower has even featured on the front of the Danish 200 kroner bank note, pushing other celebrated gems aside. A few precious times a day the city’s bike-flow takes a breather as the bridge does what it was designed to do back in 1937, allowing ship traffic to continue its journey through Copenhagen’s harbor.
Kulturtårnet – the entrance
Opened to the public a few years ago
Knippelsbro is one of only two highway bridges across Copenhagen’s inner harbor. It is a bascule bridge designed by engineer Godfred Lorenz with Danish architect Kaj Gottlob, with an aesthetic that has lasted well.
Danish 200 kroner note displaying the bridge tower at Knippelsbro
Most people find this gem by accidently walking across the Christianshavn side of the bridge. Recently, the southern tower has been converted into a cultural event space, open to the public for the first time in over 80 years. Kulturtårnet (The Culture tower) is a new cultural institution in the harbor of Copenhagen.
Knippelsbro is one of only two highway bridges across Copenhagen’s inner harbor
The bright teal yet unassuming river tower turned cafe is almost submarine-like as it sits at the side of the harbor. Funded by Copenhagen City Council and Realdania, Kulturtårnet’s minimalistic space leans to its maritime heritage and offers its guests a unique cultural and gastronomic experience.
Copenhagen’s smallest and latest cultural institution
From inside the old copper tower you can now see Copenhagen from a totally unique view. The tower operates as a place for the community to come together for cultural events and good food. The team behind this unique project, Lars Erik Lyndgaard Schmidt and Malthe Merrild, are also utilizing Copenhagen’s smallest and latest cultural institution as an experimental space for radio producers.
Kulturtårnet consists of two dining rooms as well as outdoor tables and chairs. On the deck there’s a peaceful atmosphere; inside is cozy and fun. So, once you spot the tower with the big white flag, run over and grab a coffee while taking in the sights and sounds of Copenhagen.
A Hidden Gem in Copenhagen, written by Tor Kjolberg
The award-winning Loyds Paxter, the so-called Postman Pat vehicle, designed and produced in Norway, is Europe’s most efficient and environmentally friendly postal delivery vehicle.
Norway Post wanted a vehicle that could be registered as a moped, with a 100-200 kg weight capacity and a range of 40km, or up to six hours without recharging. In 2013 Loyds Paxter was launched with a 200 kg loading capacity making fewer deposit roundtrips compared to any other small delivery vehicle.
Norway Post wanted a vehicle that could be registered as a moped
In 2016 the New Zealand Post approached the Waitaki District Council for permission to trial the new electric vehicle on Oamaru footpaths, and several other countries are considering the vehicle for use in their postal delivery systems.
Nationally, NZ Post set aside a total of $15m over two years to buy the new electric vehicles from Norwegian manufacturers Paxster AS.
NZ Post service delivery chief operating officer Ashley Smout said the four-wheeled battery-powered vehicles would be used for the combined delivery of parcels and mail in residential areas in larger centres. “The vehicles will give us extra capacity to meet the growing demand created by online shopping and give us an edge in the competitive parcel delivery market,” Smout said.
For easy access, Paxster can carry 3 x 15 kg up front, and the rear cargo box with a volume up to 820 liters can be tailor-made to fit any postal trays for the distribution of post, newspapers and small packages. The vehicle is purpose built down to every single detail, from using the battery placement to optimize center of gravity, via designing the cockpit for time-saving on repetitive tasks, to the appreciated hill-hold feature.
In 2013 Loyds Paxter was launched with a 200 kg loading capacity
The so-called Postman Pat vehicle, Loyds Paxter, is a unique product that is 100% designed for the job it is required for, namely to deliver the post. It is an ergonomic, environmentally friendly, efficient and attractive working environment with tremendous international potential.
The Postman Pat Vehicle from Norway, written by Tor Kjolberg
At the end of the 19th century a new architectural fashion arose in Scandinavia based on traditional wooden houses. This romantic movement came to be knowns by the name of Dragistil (Dragon Style), a reference to the dragon heads that used to adorn Viking ships.
The STRØMMEN TRÆVAREFABRIK outside Oslo, established in the year 1884, was one of the first big steam-powered sawmills to manufacture and export ready-made wooden houses. The houses were built from sawn or milled logs, numbered and dismantled for transportation and reassembled on the buyer’s site. Some order standard models, others custom-made houses designed by architects. In a sense, we can say that Strømmen Trævarefabrik was a forerunner of today’s IKEA.
In a marketing catalogue from 1910, the factory says, “In the course of these years, we have built and shipped about 1300 wooden houses, some churches, several barracks, garden houses, and other buildings for different purposes, which are scattered all over the world – from the island Spitzbergen in the North, where we erected the buildings for the Norwegian Wireless Telegraph Station, to the South Pole, where we furnished “The Borchgrevink South Polar Expedition” with the necessary winter dwellings.”
Molenweg 57 in Gorssel, Holland
Customers could look through a catalogue and order a range of houses, as well as wooden churches, railway stations and even a sanatorium.
One of the most famous houses delivered by Strømmen Trævarefabrik is probably Høfdi, by architect Olav Olson, designed for the French consul in Reykjavik in 1908, and which the Icelandic government later bought as a representation residence. In 1986, Presidents Reagan and Gorbachev met there for a summit raising public international attention.
Grytviken church
A large number of the houses from the Norwegian factory were shipped to South Africa, Central Africa, South America, the West Indies and other transmarine places, and in like manner they will be found in most European countries. Thus were 90 houses and barracks sent down and erected at Messina and Reggio after the earthquake in 1908.
“Our houses have everywhere proved highly efficacious, so that they have attained an ever-growing reputation. In the regions frequently afflicted with earthquakes, a wooden house well-constructed is indubitably the most secure place of habitation,” states the catalogue.
Typical house from Strommen trævarefabrik AS
Also the residents of Gelderland, Holland, had an opportunity to learn about this building system at an industrial art exhibition in Arnhem. In 1903, and in 1913, a Norwegian house was exported to Gorssel and assembled on site. It had all the modern facilities of the time, including running water and electricity. The house was owned for a time by Vloogenboom and Van Hasselt and was then acquired by Maria Büchner, who left it to a foundation for disabled children after her death.
The railway station in Hamar, Norway
The art of building wooden houses is known to be very old in Norway, where this method of building has, with very few exceptions, been the only one in use from the commencement of history. The country still possesses wooden churches, whose age has been proved to be 800 years.
The factory burned in 1919 and went bankrupt ten years later.
The Exciting Story of a Norwegian House Manufacturer, written by Tor Kjolberg
Feature image (on top): Høfdi, by architect Olav Olson, designed for the French consul in Reykjavik in 1908.
The Scandinavian oyster (Ostrea edulis) is the round-shelled belon, and this is what our oyster shell-middens consist of. Pollution, bad management and overfishing have reduced the native population, however, so most oysters are imported.
Nevertheless, the population of the native oyster is on the rise once again, and as it is much fleshier and in most people’s opinion superior to the imported Pacific oyster, it is good to have the choice. There are not many wild oysters to be had, but oysters have been farmed since Roman times.
A Scandinavian oyster plate
Appearance and taste A shucked oyster in its prime should have a visible beard ands a light brown or greyish color with a white muscle. It should have a good, clean flavor and be firm and juicy. Oysters contain water, which you either drink, while eating them, or put into any dish with them. The liquid gas a refined sea-breeze quality that you don’t want to miss.
The population of the native oyster is on the rise once again
Native oysters spawn in the summer and are usually not eaten during that time, but other, farmed species are available all year round. There is a great difference in the taste and consistency, depending on whether or not the oysters have spawned; before spawning they are fat and firm, while afterwards, in the autumn, they are thin and exhausted – both have their dedicated fans.
Buying and storing With oysters, you must trust your fishmonger as there is no way of telling how fresh they are, or how long they have been kept out of water. Make sure that they smell fresh and are tightly closed.
Oysters can be stored alive in the fridge for a couple of days, in the container they are bought in, though they lose taste and precious water with prolonged waiting.
Culinary uses If eating raw, live creature seems too much for you, try them in a delicious fish soup or grill them for 3 minutes with a blob of hollandaise and a dusting of breadcrumbs. Warm oysters are lovely, and the gentle way to set your mind at ease while getting addicted to them.
To eat raw, serve with butter, good toasted bread and lemon. Six oysters per person for a first course.
How to suck an oyster Oysters have a flat and a rounded side. Rest the rounded side in the palm of your glove-clad hand and using a short, thick-bladed knife, either cut the valve or tweeze the blade between the two shells at the other end and, in order to cut the stool (the muscle that keeps the shells together).
Remove the flat shell. This operation admittedly takes the nerve, patience, practice, and possibly, the odd plaster. Put your nose to every oyster; it should smell like a swim in cold salt water. If it doesn’t discard it.
Rest your shucked oyster in the deep shell on a bed of crushed ice, or seaweed, so the juices stay in the shell. And continue with the other oysters. Any that are not well inside should be rejected. Once shucked, the oysters should be eaten as quickly as possible.
It’s anyone’s guess what the Swedish sculptor John Tobias Sergel (1740-1814) might have thought of the huge illuminated obelisk, fountain and square that bears his name, and of the modern city around it.
The heart of this business and commercial area is not large, but it sits somewhat uneasily with the rest. From Sergels Torg it is hard to miss the five towering office blocks on Sveavägen, which cast their shadow over the other buildings.
Spring in King’s Garden
In the 1960s. Stockholm City Council, like so many others, succumbed to the temptation to knock things down and build concrete and glass high-rise buildings.
The destruction of many fine old buildings continued until it threatened the King’s Garden with the statue of the warrior king Karl XII on its southern side. At this point the Stockholmers had had enough. Normally placid and biddable, they mustered at the King’s Garden, climbed the threes that were in danger of the axe, and swore that if the trees went so did the people.
The City Fathers retreated, and Kungsträdgården survives to soften the edges of the new buildings and harmonize with the older buildings that are left. This the place to take a leisurely stroll or sit beside the fountains on a summer day and enjoy a coffee at its outdoor café.
In summer it is the venue of many outdoor festivals and rock concerts. In winter, part og Kungsträsdgården is flooded with water and becomes a popular ice rink, and the restaurant moves indoors.
The Hallwyl Collection
A short stroll east is the early 20th-century private palace housing one of Stockholm’s most unusual museums, the Hallwyl Collection. It’s the magpie collection of one person, Countess von Hallwyl, from her ornate piano to china, beautiful furniture and personal knick-knacks.
The Café at King’s Garden
Just north of the museum on Östermalmtorg, stop to snack at Östermalmshallen, a classy deli-style market.
King’s Garden in Stockholm, written by Tor Kjolberg
Sweet Protection, the Norwegian maker of the most advanced helmets, protective gear and apparel for ski, snowboard, bike and paddle sport, set out for the small village of Valldal on the West Coast of Norway to test and shoot the bike gear for this season.
Valldal, a small village on the West Coast of Norway known for its amazingly juicy strawberries is also a world-class mountain biking destination. It was a natural choice for both testing and shooting this season’s new bike gear.
Valldal was a natural choice for both testing and shooting the season’s new bike gear
The Sweet Protection photo shoot Last summer you might have seen Sweet Protection ambassador Mads “Makken” Haugen biking on what looks like the edge of the world in Norway’s west coast town of Geirangerfjorden. Playing host to some of the most dramatic landscapes anywhere, Geirangerfjorden is a popular tourist attraction with its unique fjords, abundant waterfalls and towering mountains.
You can escape the throngs of cruise ship tourists for a quieter place with world-class mountain biking
Paradise for mountain biking
However, less than an hour away you can escape the throngs of cruise ship tourists for a quieter place with world-class mountain biking and the juiciest strawberries you will ever taste. Some would say it’s mountain bike paradise on Earth, others just call it Valldal.
Valldal was for a long time a hidden gem mostly enjoyed by the locals
Placed between the two main tourist attractions of Trollstigen and Geirangerfjorden, Valldal was for a long time a hidden gem mostly enjoyed by the locals. Due to its location in a small valley away from the coast, Valldal is often a couple of degrees warmer than its neighbors (hence the extraordinary strawberry situation), making it the perfect summer outdoor adventure location. And indeed, it is. At least if you enjoy mountain biking.
Riding on the West Coast is spectacular and well worth the effort
Spectacular biking
Mountain biking on the West Coast is tough. There are no lifts to take you to the top. And with some climbs rising so quickly, this is definitely hike-a-bike territory, meaning you’ll have to earn your turns in the summertime, too. However, riding on the West Coast is spectacular and well worth the effort. If you aren´t convinced by the views at the top, the ride down is guaranteed to win you over.
ValldaL is placed between the two main tourist attractions of Trollstigen and Geirangerfjorden at the Norwegian western coast
Whether you prefer smooth, flowy trail or a more technical ride, Valldal offers it all. The quality ride, small-town coffee shop, strawberry fields, fjords and unique mountain views make it sound like a cliché, but it´s not. It´s Valldal.
Whether you prefer smooth, flowy trail or a more technical ride, Valldal offers it all
Perfect for bikers as well as photographers
There’s no such thing as bad weather. Every day is a single-track kind of day! Don’t let a little rain stop you. Try the Hunter series from Sweet Protection if you´re in need of an upgrade.
Valldal was the perfect location for the Sweet Protection photo shoot
This was the perfect location for our Sweet Protection photo shoot. The views, the unique terrain and the best trails were searched for, like for instance the Romsdal´s Horn.
Sweet Protection searched for unique terrain and the best trails
Another upside of the choice of location, is the fact that you will never run out of water. Waterfalls are not a rare sight, and the water quality is first class.
Biking at Roimsdal’s Horn
The History of Sweet Protection
The Sweet Protection story started in Trysil, a mountain village in Østerdalen, Norway close to Swedish border in 1988. The Sweet mantra, stronger – lighter – better, can be traced back to a school paper from 1988, made by one of the founders and design manager, Ståle N. Møller. A pioneering and visionary industrial designer on a relentless mission to let action sport enthusiasts benefit from the properties of high tech materials and manufacturing methods.
Ståle N. Møller, the creator of Sweet Protection, Photo: Wikipedia
Some years down the road, and the scribbles on a paper have become the core of a unique brand identity, and in the process the mantra has evolved into a purified sentence: We create superior protection inspiring people to push their boundaries.
From the Sweet Protection photo shoot
How an illegal skate ramp was the start of a successful protection company Skateboarding was prohibited in Norway until 1989, as the only country in the world. Judged to be dangerous by the government. Growing up in a small town in the deep forests of eastern Norway, Ståle and his friends were clueless of how the banned sport of skateboarding was developing in other parts of Norway. Together they built a 7 meter high vert ramp hidden in the woods, and this was where it all went down until the prohibition law was repealed and a better ramp was built in the center of town.
Local shredders were supplied with handmade boards made of fine Norwegian wood out of the garage of Ståle´s parents. Ståle was also always busy improving and creating clothing and equipment for the boys, even making his own snowboard. In the mid 90’s, they made the clothes and backpacks they wanted and needed for their own expeditions, built to stand the harsh conditions on the biggest mountains.
Straight out-of-the-garage products made the world championships In 1997, freestyle kayaking was gaining ground. The existing kayaks were crap, and Ståle made a kayak revolution by developing a Kevlar wonder for his friend and top kayaker Erik Martinsen. This was the first spark of the Sweet brand emerging. With Ståle still in design school, he made another head turner, a carbon fiber helmet Erik could use in the freestyle kayaking world championships.
Ståle’s innovative approach and fresh design was breathtaking. Everybody wanted it. In 1999 Gøran, a member of the crew, came up with the idea of establishing a new company: “Sweet North”. However, half of the name was dropped, and Sweet was born.
Snowboard legend Terje Håkonsen on board The company was founded in 2000, and one of the first moves was to approach another uncompromising Norwegian; snowboard legend Terje Håkonsen. He saw the potential in the helmet prototype that was presented and joined the team. With Terje on board, Sweet made the move from the local garage to the international scene. Today no Sweet products leave Trysil without the influence of the team.
Terje Håkonsen. Photo: Sweet Protection
In 2003 Sweet made their first ISPO appearance, and immediately won the Brand New Award for best newcomer. The products had close ties to the initial, homemade gear the boys used exploring mountains in their youth.
The Bushwhacker II MIPS helmet
Expanding the protection line
Until 2005 all helmet production was manufactured in Trysil, Norway. Due to capacity issues Sweet moved the production to Italy, a necessary move to continue to grow. In 2011 the first bike helmet from Sweet was put into market aimed towards the more aggressive part of the biking community. The biking range evolved to include the award winning Bushwacker, the go to helmet for single track biking. The Sweet gang continues to push revolutionary products into the market and MIPS, with their revolutionary rotational gravity impact technology, becomes an important strategic partner for Sweet, making the helmets even safer.
The Dissenter MIPS helmet
Aksel Lund Svindal proving the Sweet helmets to be first choice for alpine skiers
Sweet takes racing seriously and in 2012 Sweet teams up with Aksel Lund Svindal who gives the hand- crafted Rooster Corsa its debut in the alpine World Cup in Sölden, Austria on October 27 the same year. The helmet, made from pre-preg carbon and thermoplastic fibers, is baked in an autoclave, the same technique used to make Formula 1 racecars.
Aksel Lund Svindal in the slopes. Photo: Red Bull
In 2017 Sweet introduces a new single-track bike helmet named the Dissenter and the iconic Falconer helmet for serious road bikers.
Sweet’s products have since received several domestic and international awards for design excellence as well as best gear.
All photos, except where noted, taken by Dan Milner for the Norwegian brand Sweet Protection.
We thank Sweet Protection for their kind cooperation making this article, Sweet and Safe World-Class Biking on the Norwegian Western Coast, available for Daily Scandinavian.
Kulturtårnet consists of two dining rooms as well as outdoor tables and chairs. On the deck there’s a peaceful atmosphere; inside is cozy and fun. So, once you spot the tower with the big white flag, run over and grab a coffee while taking in the sights and sounds of Copenhagen.
